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Posts Tagged ‘new look’

Imagine yourself traveling back in time … going to the post World War II (to the 1947 more or less)! You would see that the point of view of the people of those times, when it comes to fashion (specially the women’s fashion), is all about comfort and simplicity:

As you can see, it is a continuation of the fashion of the 40s. Women seemed to have their cloths inspired in the men ones or in the military and civilian uniforms. It was a little bit heavy, rough and dark (with no bright colors) since it was a period during and after the war.

You, a futuristic person, with a more eccentric spirit and a more diversified imagination, of course will be expecting something more sophisticated, more luxurious, more feminine!

And this is when appears a person who, despite not coming from the future, had really great and evolved ideas. I am talking about the genius: Christian Dior!

For the “fashion beginners”, who didn’t know, here you have briefly who was Christian Dior: 

Image

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christian_Dior

Dior was able to give to women a different way of being seen by the society, a different way of being themselves, Dior gave to women a New Look!

New Look

This was the name given to the first Christian Dior’s collection, launched in the Spring of 1947.

I wanted my dresses to be constructed, molded upon the curves of the feminine body, whose sweep they would stylize. 

-Christian Dior

Featuring rounded shoulders, a cinched waist, and very full skirt, the New Look celebrated ultra-femininity and opulence in women’s fashion. Dior offered not merely a new look but a new outlook.

After the WWII was needed a rebirth of everything, including fashion. Everybody wanted to forget all the bad things which occurred during that war and so Dior selected the best time to introduce to the world how a real and modern lady should be like.

The “New Look” was based in some Victorian fashion details and was characterized by:

  • Sloping Shoulders

square vs sloping

Inspired by pre-Civil War fashions, the sloping shoulders give a more soft and feminine look.

  • Tiny Waists

A tiny waist (with the help of corsets) is an essential part to outline the women’s figure.

  • Full Hips

All Dior’s designs require some sort of added fullness to the hip area.

This highlighted even more an “8” figure to the women’s body.

  • Full Busts

Most women wearing The Look also used push-up bras to help fill out their bust line.

As we can see, the race to the “perfect forms” had begun!

  • Full Skirts

These skirts were twelve inches or less from the ground.

Another important clothing of The New Look was the petticoat, reminiscent of early Victorian petticoats.

New Look fashion followers also favored petticoats in brightly colored shades (especially red and green) just like their Victorian ancestors.

The model that became the symbol of the “New Look” was the “tailleur Bar”, a coat of beige silk with tiny waist, natural shoulders and a wide pleated black skirt almost at the ankles.
Gloves, high heels and hats completed the outfit in an impeccable way. With this image of glamor was set the standard for the 50s fashion.

Paris, which had fallen from its position as the capital of the fashion world after WWII, regained its esteemed position due in part to the attention it gained from Dior’s New Look. The New Look was quickly adopted by women from everyplace in the world and this way this look had marked the 50s’ fashion and persists till nowadays as being a very luxurious look.

We went off of the war, uniforms, soldier women, the square shoulders and boxer structures time. I design femmes-fleurs, with sweet shoulders, soft busts, marked waists and skirts which explode in volume and layers.
I want to build my clothes, shaping them over the curves of the body. The woman herself will define the contours and style.

-Christian Dior

http://almanaque.folha.uol.com.br/christiandior.htm

__________

Bibliography:

text and ideas based on: 

http://winifredandbance.com/1940s-fashion/
http://www.bluevelvetvintage.com/vintage_style_files/tag/1940-fashion/
http://almanaque.folha.uol.com.br/christiandior.htm
http://www.vintageconnection.net/NewLook.htm
http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/dior/hd_dior.htm
http://secretfantasybolsaseacessorios.blogspot.pt/2011/03/panorama-da-moda-atraves-dos-tempos.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Christian_Dior_S.A.

pictures:

http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_gA22PqQOrwU/THcvyE3-xAI/AAAAAAAABJs/gqQLDqtiexA/s1600/andrews-sisters-wwii1.jpg
http://t0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQUg4L5Wgtvh5q-5FbCqhkDPALsk1F8Bo9S4HOkR6uIxZqE7HcbNKuBfXwnVA
http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg104/scaled.php?server=104&filename=6lxa8.jpg&res=landing
http://fuzzylizzie.com/myPictures/mangone/mangonefeb1945.jpg
http://www.costumes.org/History/20thcent/1940s/sews4victory/c1945pattern.JPG
http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_rrIjCzqJzi4/TBqnlMGEhOI/AAAAAAAAAUU/lcTueH3YicY/s1600/V-line+suit+1944.JPG
http://www.thewhitecabinet.com/thumbnail.asp?file=assets/images/photos/1940s/antoinette.jpg&maxx=300&maxy=0
http://blackingoutthefiction.files.wordpress.com/2009/02/133676147_8ebc6d0249.jpg
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_kNo1dXol7a4/SpKKWATeKYI/AAAAAAAAAwg/MBfk0pjwc2w/s400/1940s.62134810_large.jpg
http://www.bluevelvetvintage.com/vintage_style_files/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/1940fallfashion3.jpg
http://www.operagloves.com/Fashion/20s30s40sFashion/1940sfashion-vogue03011945.jpg
http://www.bluevelvetvintage.com/vintage_style_files/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/1940allfashion2.jpg
http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uH3QR9gVApI/TpXZ3KAKRbI/AAAAAAAADEY/2i8JB_rW-us/s1600/christian_dior.jpg
http://www.mutoworld.com/_uimages/NewLook.jpg
http://blog.fidmmuseum.org/.a/6a01156f47abbe970c0134862faf51970c-800wi
http://i2.squidoocdn.com/resize/squidoo_images/590/draft_lens13721781module122492421photo_12857100351940s-womens-jacket.jpg
http://www.vam.ac.uk/images/image/58137-large.jpg

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